Academy that I am very grateful, he said, clutching my hand. That Giarrat is an Arab word. Nice was not the overcrowded seaside resort of retirees and dog merds that I had passed through on a jingling train so many months before. I accidentally dropped my card and before I could retrieve it the old woman pounced and snatched it up, then brought it to her mouth and kissed it, in a kind of greedy veneration. Croatias were pathetic, Greeces stocked school textbooks and womens magazines, Turkeys were no use to me, nor were Egypts. The howls of their grieving Muslims had the snarl of a war cry. I saw an old woman riding a donkey through a herd of goats, I saw shepherds strolling behind flocks of sheep, and stumbling lambs, and in the geometric settlements there were low square houses on grids of streets. Farther on there was a submarine base, with a large man-made cave cut into the mountainside at the shoreline for the sub to slide into.